Tuesday, October 23, 2007

A Day Apart

(cough) Another sunny day in central China.

The wonderful thing here is that (cough) you just can't get sun burnt - the air pollution is so thick that (cough) it feels like no rays of sun ever reach the ground.
I did see the sun for a bit (cough) - we were on a hike in the mountains and the sky was quite blue. We (cough) hiked up the shady side of the hill, but when afternoon arrived the (cough) sun just illuminated the pollution particles and a thick pall surrounded us.

It may be why most motorcycles here are electric and not powered by gasoline. This makes the cities quieter, unlike Bangkok or Tel Aviv that have a constant buzz of motorcycle engines. Of course, no self respecting bike rider here would put on his headlights at night and pedestrians are constantly walking into the paths of motorbikes silently floating towards them in the dark.

What with everything going on with (cough) you know who, I decided I would leave her at the hotel today to cool off; we needed time apart. It seems that I also needed to reestablish my (cough) manhood and I went out to do a bit of flirting. Must be a mid life crisis thing.

Together with two blokes from the hostel, I rode a bicycle for 14 km along the top of the ramparts surrounding this city and it felt good. Unfortunately, any views of the city (cough) faded away sharply in the polluted air. It was horrific. At some point my eyes started stinging and my lungs felt slightly queasy.

We finished the ride and wandered into one of the city's lovely parks. A terrific treat on a Sunday afternoon, the park being full of city residents spending a day with the family. The three of us watched the fashions of the lovely girls in high boots and short skirts, and it felt disgustingly macho.

Being white guys we were instant celebrities and, as has happened to me here so often before, numerous local girls and young women (and even on occasion, young men...!) came up and asked to be photographed with us. Some thanked us (cough) kindly, while a couple of them even gave me a warm hug. It was unexpected (but, let's face it, not surprising - I've still "got it" - don't I?). Their boyfriends looked on non plussed or even took the photos. Now what was that all about?

Attached is a picture I took of a young woman at the summer palace in Beijing. The palace temple is built high on a hill in the background. It is an imposing structure, with sharp, distinct colours seen from the entire area. Or at least it was built that way. As you can see from this picture, the temple in the background is virtually invisible in the polluted haze of the air. Now do you believe me about the pollution?

Pollution, warm smiles and hugs. Oh yes, I've still 'got it'. Koala be damned.

But I do miss her. The good times, the warm moments shared. The special secrets between us, the intimacy of knowing that one side of her label says "Kid's Toys, Sydney Australia" while the other side says "Made in China".

Today proved itself a necessary foray into the world of self justification and ego reinforcement. Maybe it was an unavoidable breakdown but I must recognise my part in it. We will work it out. That is what relationships are about.

I must get back to the hostel to see how her day was. And to get my lungs steam cleaned.

Take care of your loved ones.
Your love sick traveller

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