Aftermath

[Pictures - memorial for earthquake victims - Lijiang, NW China]

The Israeli accents were not difficult to identify in the dingy little common area of the hostel. I introduced myself. “Where are you travelling?” I asked. “We just arrived from Chengdu”. Chengdu, the large city 60km from the centre of last week’s earthquake. They had flown into Chengdu after the event occurred. “The city itself is safe – there did not seem to be any infrastructure damage. But believe me, you won’t stay long after going through aftershocks for a few nights.

Another couple of guys I met told me the same story. “We were on the train when it happened. But we made it to town. We stayed there a few days. Life goes on you know. But many tourist attractions have closed down.

The TV here seems to have 24 hour reports of rescue efforts, as well as coverage of international support for China. This includes aid from that little renegade, Taiwan. English TV has a hokey political forum that has been discussing thawing in relations with Taiwan. It eerily mimics those commentators on Israel TV who analyse ad nauseum almost anything that happened that day vis a vis Israeli – Palestinian “peace” negotiations; as if some major breakthrough had occurred. Am I just being cynical? Experience would suggest not.

I checked in my bags at the airport ahead of my flight to Lijiang, near the quake affected Sichuan province. A grating horn noise blared and everyone around me bowed their heads. 5 Minutes silence for the dead, part of a declared 3 day period of mourning. For me, a minute of silence is an Israeli experience. In this context it brought me in touch with humanity as whole.

I hear that the last time a major earthquake hit China, in 1976, about 900,000 people died. Who in the West knew? Or cared? I heard about it after the Tsunmai in Indonesia. Today China is holding the world’s focus. The 2008 Olympic games. Protests about Tibet. The importance of Chinese economic stability for the world economy. Chinese people are no longer insignificant. And here too I relate to them. Because just like Israel, they are both needed and vilified, by the World media.

As luck would have it I was seated on the plane next to a couple from my home town in Australia. We spoke of how moving the Chinese response has been to the earthquake. The Chinese are a very strongly nationalist bunch, very brotherly in their outlook. The conversation took us elsewhere. Comparisons were made with Israel, which the couple had visited and very much support. We also spoke of the dawn service held annually for Australian military casualties. All three of us had attended the service only 1 month ago in Australia.

After landing yesterday in Lijiang I read my emails. I received a message from friends in Chengdu who had enthusiastically invited me to visit them. Don’t come. Many aftershocks. The Government is warning of disease in the province from dead bodies still being hauled from the rubble.

I left my hotel for a short evening walk. The town is famous for its annoying abundance of tourists blocking the small streets. But the place is relatively quiet following the earthquake. Despite this, the town square was packed with people holding candles for a memorial service. The candles were placed in little boats and sent floating down the river. It was all very emotional.

Foreign tourists have their own business to attend to. Hostel discussions revolve around amended travel plans; “We were going to go to Tibet. Do you know if it will reopen to foreigners?”. “Forget Chengdu, you know, after the earthquake. I will have to fly to Shanghai”. “I was going to be here 6 weeks but the new, pre Olympic visa requirements may mean I have to leave early”.

The bottom line I that I am a tourist. That means that while trying to connect to local events, I too am required to amend my plans and arrange my visas.

I am planning a foray further towards the Tibetan border. Let us see what tomorrow brings.